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English, 05.05.2020 19:43 GabbyLandry

"I tried to emulate them. I watched them, tried to do everything that they did, and failed utterly. The breaker swept past, and I was not on it. I tried again and again. I kicked twice as madly as they did, and failed. Half a dozen would be around. We would all leap on our boards in front of a good breaker. Away our feet would churn like the sternwheels of river steamboats, and away the little rascals would scoot while I remained in disgrace behind."

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"I tried to emulate them. I watched them, tried to do everything that they did, and failed utterly....
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